The Gentlemen has become as recognisable for its distinctive British style as it is for its sharp dialogue, country estates and criminal underworld. At the centre of that aesthetic is Eddie Horniman, played by Theo James, whose wardrobe offers a modern interpretation of the British gentleman's style: impeccably tailored suits, understated colours, quality fabrics and accessories chosen with restraint.
If you're searching for Eddie Halstead's style, or simply want to understand how to dress like a modern British gentleman, the principles are surprisingly straightforward. The look isn't built around flashy designer labels or passing trends. It comes down to a well-cut suit, considered proportions, traditional British fabrics and an understanding of when to dress formally — and when to relax the rules.
But Eddie isn't the only character in The Gentlemen worth studying.
From Giancarlo Esposito's impeccably dressed Uncle Stan to Ray Winstone's Bobby Glass, the series presents several different interpretations of luxury menswear. Together, they offer a surprisingly comprehensive guide to modern gentleman's style.
So, if you want to dress like the men of The Gentlemen, where should you start?
What Makes the Style of The Gentlemen Work?
The appeal of the wardrobe in The Gentlemen isn't any single garment. It is the relationship between everything being worn.
The jackets have structure without appearing stiff. The trousers have enough room to create an elegant line without becoming oversized. Shirts are relatively simple, ties are restrained and shoes are traditional.
Nothing is screaming for attention.
That restraint is what makes the wardrobe feel expensive.
There is also a distinctly British understanding of proportion at work. The tailoring doesn't chase the ultra-slim silhouette that dominated menswear for much of the 2000s and 2010s. Jackets have presence through the shoulder and chest, while trousers maintain enough volume to balance the upper half of the outfit.
The result is masculine, composed and contemporary without being overly fashionable.
This is the essence of modern British tailoring: quality over spectacle, proportion over trend and confidence over display.
1. Start With a Properly Cut British Suit
If you want to recreate Eddie's look, the suit is where everything begins.
For an Eddie-inspired wardrobe, a single-breasted, two-button jacket is an excellent starting point. Look for a defined shoulder, a clean chest and moderate waist suppression rather than an aggressively slim cut.
The jacket should follow the natural architecture of the body.
It should sit cleanly across the shoulders, with the collar resting comfortably against the neck and the lapels lying flat against the chest. The jacket should cover the seat without becoming excessively long, while the sleeves should finish around the wrist and allow a small amount of shirt cuff to show.
These details sound minor. Together, they completely change how a suit looks.
The Importance of the Lapel
Lapel width is one of the easiest ways to distinguish a considered suit from a fashionable one.
Extremely narrow lapels can make the chest and shoulders appear disproportionately wide. Oversized lapels can dominate a smaller frame. A moderately generous notch lapel creates balance and has the advantage of remaining timeless.
The same principle applies to the jacket's button stance. The position of the top button affects the perceived length of the torso and the overall proportions of the suit.
These are precisely the kinds of details that can be adjusted through bespoke tailoring. Rather than selecting a predetermined size, the proportions of the jacket can be considered in relation to the individual wearing it.
2. Don't Confuse Tailored With Tight
One of the biggest mistakes men make when trying to achieve a sharp suit silhouette is buying a suit that is simply too small.
Eddie's clothing looks fitted, but it doesn't look restrictive.
There is enough room through the chest and armhole to allow movement. The waist is shaped, but the jacket isn't pulling across the buttons. The trousers follow the leg without clinging to it.
This distinction is fundamental.
A well-tailored suit should reveal the shape of the wearer without looking as though it is fighting against him.
For bespoke tailoring, this is particularly important. A good tailor isn't trying to make every client fit the same silhouette. The cut should respond to the client's height, posture, shoulder shape, chest, waist and preferred level of structure.
3. Choose the Right British Colour Palette
The colour palette of The Gentlemen is deliberately restrained, which makes it exceptionally easy to build a wardrobe around.
Start with:
- Navy — the most versatile foundation for a tailored wardrobe
- Charcoal — formal, understated and distinctly British
- Mid-grey — versatile enough for business and more relaxed occasions
- Brown — warmer, more characterful and particularly effective in textured cloth
- Cream and stone — ideal for relaxed tailoring
- Olive and forest green — excellent supporting colours for autumn and winter
There is no need to introduce all of them at once.
A sophisticated wardrobe can be built around three or four core colours and then expanded through shirts, ties, shoes and outerwear.
Navy is the obvious place to begin. It works with white, blue, cream and striped shirting and can be worn with both black and brown footwear.
Brown is where things become more interesting.
A dark chocolate or tobacco suit in a textured wool has a distinctly British character. Pair it with a pale blue or cream shirt, a dark brown tie and suede shoes and you have an outfit that feels traditional without becoming costume-like.
4. Texture Is Often Better Than Pattern
British tailoring has always understood the power of texture.
Rather than relying on bold patterns, an elegant suit can gain character from the cloth itself.
Consider flannel, brushed wool, herringbone, hopsack and subtle textured weaves. These fabrics create depth while remaining relatively quiet from a distance.
A navy flannel suit is a perfect example. At first glance, it is simply navy. Look closer and the surface of the cloth catches the light differently, giving the suit considerably more depth than a smooth business worsted.
This is also where seasonality becomes important.
Autumn and winter provide an opportunity to introduce heavier cloths, richer textures and deeper colours that would feel out of place during summer.
Good tailoring should respond to its environment.
5. Understand the Difference Between British and Italian Suit Style
Although the distinction is not absolute, British and Italian tailoring have historically approached the silhouette from different directions.
Traditional British tailoring tends towards structure: a defined shoulder, a more substantial canvas and a silhouette that creates shape through the jacket itself.
Italian tailoring is often associated with a softer construction, lighter jackets and a closer relationship with the natural shape of the body.
Eddie's wardrobe sits much closer to the British side of that spectrum.
The clothing has presence. The jacket creates a clear silhouette, while the overall styling remains relatively restrained.
That doesn't mean British tailoring has to feel stiff or formal.
A contemporary bespoke suit can borrow the best elements of both traditions: the structure and authority of British tailoring combined with softer construction and more relaxed styling.
What matters is knowing which elements suit the wearer.
6. Uncle Stan: The American Interpretation of British Luxury
Eddie isn't the only man in The Gentlemen worth studying for his wardrobe.
Giancarlo Esposito's Uncle Stan — better known to many viewers as Gus Fring from Breaking Bad and Better Call Saul — offers an entirely different interpretation of what it means to dress like a gentleman.
Where Eddie's wardrobe feels inherited, Stan's feels acquired.
He is an immensely wealthy American entering a world built around centuries of British history, aristocracy and tradition. His clothes reflect that distinction. He understands luxury, but he approaches British style from the outside.
That makes his wardrobe particularly interesting.
Stan is more comfortable introducing personality into traditional tailoring. His wardrobe embraces richer textures, stronger colours and statement pieces while retaining the underlying discipline of a tailored silhouette.
The Power of Texture
Stan demonstrates something that is easy to overlook when discussing luxury tailoring: expensive doesn't have to mean loud.
A burgundy velvet dinner jacket, for example, makes a much stronger statement than a standard black tuxedo. But the richness comes from the cloth rather than from an obvious logo or excessive decoration.
Likewise, a patterned tailored jacket paired with textured knitwear creates visual interest without relying on an aggressively modern silhouette.
This is a useful lesson for anyone building a luxury wardrobe.
If the cut is right and the fabric has depth, you don't need to add much else.
When to Break the Rules
This is where Stan's wardrobe differs most from Eddie's.
Eddie's style is about mastering the rules of British tailoring. Stan is comfortable bending them.
A conventional evening look becomes richer through velvet. A traditional jacket gains personality through texture. A classic tailored outfit can be elevated through carefully chosen accessories.
The result feels luxurious without becoming theatrical.
For the modern client, this is perhaps the more interesting lesson: master the fundamentals before you start breaking them.
A statement jacket works because the wearer already understands proportion. A distinctive cloth works because the cut remains disciplined. A remarkable accessory works because it is surrounded by otherwise restrained clothing.
7. Bobby Glass: Traditional British Tailoring With Authority
Then there is Bobby Glass, played by Ray Winstone.
Where Eddie represents the younger generation of British aristocratic tailoring and Stan brings an international interpretation of luxury, Bobby Glass represents something much more traditional.
His wardrobe is rooted in classic British menswear: dark tailoring, substantial fabrics, conservative proportions and an unmistakable sense of authority.
It is a useful reminder that British tailoring does not need to follow fashion in order to remain relevant.
A dark, well-cut suit with a quality shirt and polished shoes can communicate considerably more than an outfit covered in obvious luxury branding.
The silhouette does the work.
This is particularly relevant to men building a long-term wardrobe. Trends come and go. Proportion, fit and quality remain.
8. Keep the Shirt Simple
The shirt should support the suit rather than compete with it.
White and pale blue are the natural foundations of a British tailoring wardrobe.
For a contemporary interpretation of Eddie's style, consider a spread or semi-spread collar with enough presence to sit comfortably beneath the jacket's lapels.
The collar should be proportionate to the wearer's face and the width of the lapels.
Again, proportion is the recurring theme.
A narrow collar with wide lapels can feel unbalanced. A large collar with very narrow lapels can create the same problem in reverse.
Everything should appear to belong together.
9. Take the Tie Seriously
The tie has largely disappeared from everyday menswear, which makes wearing one properly an increasingly powerful statement.
For a British gentleman's wardrobe, look towards traditional textures such as grenadine, wool, repp and knitted silk.
Deep burgundy, navy, forest green and brown are particularly versatile.
The width of the tie should broadly correspond with the width of the jacket's lapels. A modest amount of texture can add visual interest without becoming distracting.
The goal isn't to make the tie the most interesting part of the outfit.
It should complete it.
10. Get the Trousers Right
Perhaps the most important difference between contemporary bespoke tailoring and the ultra-slim suits of previous decades can be seen below the waist.
Eddie's trousers aren't skin-tight.
They have enough room through the thigh and leg to create a clean vertical line, while maintaining a modest taper towards the ankle.
The rise is equally important.
A slightly higher rise can lengthen the appearance of the leg and create a more elegant relationship between the jacket and trousers. The waistband should sit naturally rather than being pulled down onto the hips.
As for the trouser break, both a slight break and a cleaner no-break finish can work. The correct choice depends on the overall silhouette and the wearer's proportions.
The important thing is consistency.
A substantial jacket paired with extremely narrow, cropped trousers will usually look disconnected. The upper and lower halves of the suit should speak the same visual language.
11. Choose Traditional Shoes
Nothing undermines a well-tailored suit faster than the wrong footwear.
For an Eddie-inspired wardrobe, keep things classic:
- Black Oxfords for formal occasions
- Dark brown Oxfords or Derbies for versatility
- Brown suede for more relaxed tailoring
- Loafers when the occasion permits a more casual interpretation
Polished leather works particularly well with formal tailoring, while suede can soften the appearance of a suit without making it look casual.
The shoes should also complement the trouser line. A slim, elegant trouser generally works better with a refined shoe, while a fuller trouser can accommodate something with slightly more substance.
12. Dress for the Occasion
One of the reasons the style in The Gentlemen feels convincing is that it understands the difference between being dressed and being overdressed.
Not every suit needs to be worn in exactly the same way.
A navy suit with a white shirt, silk tie and black Oxfords creates a formal impression. The same navy jacket worn separately with a soft blue shirt, tailored trousers and loafers becomes considerably more relaxed.
The clothes remain classic. The styling changes.
This is particularly important when building a bespoke wardrobe. The best garments aren't limited to one occasion. A well-designed jacket can work with different trousers, shirts and shoes, allowing a relatively small wardrobe to create a large number of outfits.
13. Keep the Accessories Under Control
Perhaps the most important rule of all: don't try too hard.
The modern British gentleman doesn't need to display every expensive possession at once.
A good watch. A pair of cufflinks. A simple pocket square. Perhaps a tie bar when appropriate.
That's often enough.
A white linen pocket square folded neatly into the breast pocket will generally achieve more than an elaborate arrangement of competing colours and patterns.
The same principle applies to watches, jewellery, belts and other accessories.
Restraint is part of the aesthetic.
Eddie or Stan? Two Ways to Dress Like a Gentleman
The contrast between Eddie Horniman and Uncle Stan is ultimately what makes The Gentlemen such a useful reference point for menswear.
Eddie represents the traditional British approach: structured tailoring, restrained colours, heritage fabrics and an understanding of occasion.
Stan represents a more international interpretation of luxury: exceptional materials, stronger statements and a willingness to introduce personality into traditional tailoring.
Bobby Glass offers another variation: classic British tailoring stripped back to its fundamentals, with authority coming from the cut rather than from decoration.
None of these approaches is necessarily better.
The best wardrobes borrow from all three.
Start with Eddie's discipline. Learn the importance of fit, proportion, cloth and occasion. Then, once those foundations are established, introduce some of Stan's confidence through texture, colour and individual details. Take Bobby's understanding that a truly good suit doesn't need to follow every new trend.
The result is a wardrobe that feels personal rather than copied.
The Difference Bespoke Makes
There is an important distinction between taking inspiration from the wardrobe of The Gentlemen and attempting to copy it exactly.
The reason the clothes work so well on screen is that they are appropriate to the characters wearing them. The same principle applies in real life.
Your height, posture, shoulder width, chest, waist, arm length and leg shape all influence the way a suit should be cut.
A suit that looks exceptional on one man may look entirely different on another.
This is the fundamental advantage of bespoke tailoring.
Rather than selecting a predetermined size and asking the wearer to fit inside it, the process begins with the individual. The silhouette, cloth, construction and details can all be considered in relation to the person who will ultimately wear the garment.
Bespoke tailoring starts with the man, not the suit.
The Maison Leoni Approach
At Maison Leoni, we believe the best tailoring doesn't need to announce itself.
It should be recognised through its proportions, its cloth, its construction and the way it sits on the individual wearing it.
Our approach to bespoke tailoring combines the discipline of traditional tailoring with a contemporary understanding of how modern men actually dress. Each garment is considered around the client's proportions, lifestyle and requirements, from the initial choice of cloth through to the final details.
The objective isn't to make every client look like Eddie Horniman, Uncle Stan or Bobby Glass.
It is to understand why their wardrobes work — the restraint, the proportions, the quality and the confidence — and apply those principles to the individual.
Because ultimately, the best-dressed man in the room is rarely the one wearing the loudest suit.
He is the one whose clothes look as though they were made specifically for him.
Explore Maison Leoni bespoke tailoring and discover a more personal approach to the suit.